Eating Healthier in Today's World


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Baking Accessories --The Pans and Other Miscellany Friday, April 16, 2010

BAKING ACCESSORIES--THE PANS

I have talked a lot about making, shaping, rising, kneading, measuring etc. the bread but haven't spoke much about the pans that we use.  Bread may not be better-tasting when it is baked in a standard size pan, but it does make predictable slices for sandwiches and for putting in the toaster--not unimportant considerations for most of us.  However, you can bake in almost any heatproof utensil that gives room for rising and that will let you remove the loaf after it is baked.  For example and old bean pot would work to bake the bread well but you may have quite a fight on your hands trying to get the bread out in tack.

Our recipes are sized to fit in the standard medium bread pan approx. 8"x4" or 21x11 cm.  I greatly prefer this size of pan for whole grain breads.  The larger 5"x9" standard pans were designed for cardboardly white kleenex bread, and unless an extremely high-gluten flour is used by a really terrific kneader, slices of whole-grain bread made in these pans tend to fall apart when they are spread with anything stiffer than soup.  Besides, it is not so easy to cook the bread thoroughly in the large pans without drying out the crust.  The smallest standard pans, usually called fruitcake pans are about 3"x 6 1/2".  The slice is too small for a reasonable sandwich, though the bread bakes well enough, and in less time.  These are perfect for individual serving at a fancy dinner or better yet , passing out samples of your bread if you are selling it to your friends.  (or giving it away)  You would make double the number of loaves using these small pans from one of our recipes.

It would be impossible to discuss the merits of all the pans and crocks and stones and whatnot that are available to the enthusiastic and well-financed baker; but sometimes normal kitchen equipment does just as well as some of the expensive stuff.  For example, stainless steel bowls:  grease them well and dust them with cornmeal or sprinkle with seeds to be sure the dough doesn't stick.  The 1 1/2 qt. size is just right for one loaf's worth of dough.  If the bowl is deep and round, the bread will come out looking like a soccer ball with a slightly flattened top.  These loaves can be very pretty, but note that whenever the loaf becomes rounder and deeper, is more spherical, or is larger because there is more dough in it, it will tkae extra baking time.  When it is flatter (but well-risen) or longer and narrower than the norm, it will take less time to cook through.  Bread that has not risen well takes the longest time to bake.

Free standing dough works great on cookie sheets providing the dough is not too soft.  If it is too soft, it will sag and make a large, flattish, cursty, airy--but delicious--loaf.  Two normal loaves can also bake side by side in an 8" square baking pan.  To be sure that they don't cling to each other after they're baked, a little fat between them does the trick.  They will require extra baking time:  to check, turn them out and let them fall apart.  Touch one loaf where it was next to the other, as if your were testing a cake for doneness with light finger pressure.  It will spring bake if it is done.  If it doesn't and your fingermark stays wetly there, put the loaves back for another 10 min of baking, more or less.

Try to bake your breads or rolls as close to the centre of the oven as possible, or a little about centre.  If you have to use the bottom rack, it is helpful to use two baking sheets or two loaf pans one inside the other to deflect some of the heat from the bottom of the bread.  Check halfway through to see whether you should reverse the pans for an evener bake.  Be sure there is at least a couple of inches of air space all around the edges of the baking sheet. 

If your baking pan or dish is pottery or glass, take time to warm it up a little before you put in the dough.  Very cold pans can chill the dough on the crust, making the bread dense there.  The result may just be a tough crust, or the crust may actually separate from the loaf where it was chilled.

I have stopped recommending 48 oz. juice cans to bake in.  My enthusiasm for cans has been dampened by recent findings that the lead solder in their seams does find its way into the food stored--and perhaps baked--in them.  I am sorry.  Cans certainly have many advantages for breadmaking.  More loaves fit into the oven, with better distribution of heat.  Enclosed in its can, the dough rises nicely and doesn't dry out in proofing or in baking.  And your slices have a quirky round shape that is very chic in sandwiches and toast.  I now bake either on a pizza stone or in our regular pans, saving the cans for steamed bread on rare occasions.  Until the industry manages to get the lead out, I can't recommend cans for regular baking. 


posted by Carol or Pam Stiles at 9:00 am

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Wednesday, December 31, 1969 @ 4:00 pm

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